"I like this place..." - Shakespeare

Hello Dear Family,

I've been heartily enjoying my sister's company, as is evidenced by my recent lapse in communication. I haven't written in over a month, and feel that it's about time to catch you up on all the present happenstances of daily life in Korea.

As you know, Rebekah (whom I introduce to my Korean friends as Becky, a much more linguistically manageable name) arrived two weeks ago, on a Monday evening. Four days later my Christmas break began, and we've spent these last nine days visiting all those exciting places in Korea that everyone other than its residents have toured. I haven't really been out much, since getting back here, so it's been good for me to spend some of my days out of doors. If only to spite the frigid temperatures.

We've taken a boat on the Han River (a first for me), ascended 136 meters up to the 3rd observation deck of Seoul Tower, nearly lost ourselves in the Namdaemun market, strolled through the quaint, traditional streets of Insadong, popped our heads out of the subway in Itaewon, the foreign side of town, enjoyed fresh, warm waffles underground, joined a DMZ tour, and of course, partaken of those necessary Korean dishes: kimche, rice, noodle soup, kimbop, mandu, and p'chingae.

Needless to say, I haven't studied much over this last week. But, having foreseen a busy Christmas break, I purchased my level two books in advance, about a month and a half ago, and committed to memory sixty-eight vocabulary words a day, between semesters. That covered all of the vocab for level two, cutting about two hours a day off of my study time once school began. So now I'm able to be relaxed and enjoy hanging out with Rebekah, without being stressed out or feeling like I'm falling behind.
It's interesting for me to watch her response to things that have become a part of my every day life. It brings back all of my impressions, from the first few months I lived here.
Walking out together out on Rebekah's first day here, I was surprised when, as I stepped out to cross a road without first looking both ways, she grabbed my arm and jerked me back onto the sidewalk. "It's okay," I laughed at her, "Drivers here are pretty alert for pedestrians." Was it only twelve months ago that I lived strictly according to the rules of crosswalks and stop lights, lest all of Seoul's maniacal drivers run me over at once?
When it comes to elbowing ones way through a crowded subway or bus, her western sense of etiquette amuses me. I'd forgotten that where I come from there's such a thing as personal space. But, as she follows in my intrepid wake, I remember the first time I had to physically move a stranger aside, and what an daunting, uncomfortable experiencethat was for me.
"What were you guys talking about?" she often asks, when I walk away from a Korean conversation, and it comes back: how lonely it was to be on the outside of interesting discussions for so very long, and how badly I once wanted to be able to at just ­get by in Korean.
It's good for me to remember. I get discouraged when I don't see huge leaps and bounds of progress, or immediate results. But memories provide a contrast between where I was a year ago and where I am now. I realize that my time here has been as profitable as it has been pleasant, and (to quote Shakespeare), "I like this place and could willingly waste my time in it."

Aside from the negative effects of a semi-debilitating head cold, the end of 2007 has been altogether pleasant, and I look forward to writing you all again next year.

Much love, and thank you for your prayers, and for the letters that you sent with Rebekah,
Elisabeth