Wednesday, August 30, 2006

♪"here, on the street where you live..."♪

The view to the left, as I walk out of the little alley that my apartment is tucked away in.And then to the right:I love this pic...don't know why.Why did the chicken cross the road?To get to the other side!Halla Mart, where I do most of my weekday shopping (note the escalators).And the outdoor market that I love walking through every day, on my way to work.
This particular place, needless to say, always smells to high heaven. But it does carry such an assortment of food, and I like that. Squid, octopi, stingray, etc.
This guy was a little embarrassed when I took the picture. I like this place, too. Someone is often shouting to attract attention to their wares, and then they chop it up and weigh it out right there.
The fruit is pretty inexpensive, but I haven't bought any at the market yet. I'm impatient to learn how to bargain.
Not sure what any of this is, but I thought it looked pretty interesting.

Students

Kevin, one of my favorite (though not necessarily best) students.
Gotta love 'em...


Amy, as sweet as she is adorable.

Friends

...Olivia...
I don't know if I mentioned anything about the Harvard students who came out to help with the English camp. But anyways, the evening after camp, we all did a little bit of Seoul sight seeing.
myself (of course), Greg, Saul and Paul
ShoppingDinner with Joanna, Paul, Saul and the rest of the gang.

English Camp Fun

"Dear Family..."Ice cream...not real, but yum!
Get the teachers!
Group pic with some of the older kids

English Camp Misc

"Ladies and Gents..."
Haha! I actually look like I know what I'm talking about.
Kids small groupAdults small group

English Camp Teaching

Self-explanitory, I think


Sunday, August 27, 2006

For prayer...

I generally try to keep things on a positive note. It's good for the morale, and recounting humorous happenstances always puts me in a pleasant frame of mind. This blog will be different from most, in that I write it to ask specifically for your prayers. All in all I consider myself quite blessed. I think of fellow Christians in more restricted countries, and wonder how I could ever think to be discontent with that which I have. Such pious thoughts notwithstanding, much of the adjustment that I've had to undergo since being here has been quite difficult for me. Every familiar thing has been replaced with the unfamiliar, and my mind reels with the intensity of it all. The most difficult thing, and what has prompted me to ask for your prayers, is that I've not once slept the night through since coming here. Often my body is weary, but my mind won't stop working. Hyper thoughts, mostly irrelevant and worn out, just keep spinning round and round in my head until I eventually fall into an agitated, restless sleep from which I start between wakefulness and weird nightmares. Sometimes I dream with ghastly vividness. Other times the dreams are hazy and evasive, but I wake from them with a sick feeling, and a tightness all over. Needless to say, morning usually finds me quite exhausted. Unfortunately, being so physically strained really affects my perspective on and reaction to the inevitable daily inconveniences and distractions. It's really difficult for me to keep focused on anything, and also, unfortunately, takes some toll on my relationship with God. I would love to get out more in the evening after work, but usually by 7:00 my eyes are burning so badly from lack of sleep, and the world spinning so dizzily around me, that it's all I can do to climb into bed for another exhausting, fitful night. I've tried praying, meditating on Scripture. Anything I can think of. Two evenings ago, I made my mind focus on all the things I was grateful for. I ran my mind over blessing after blessing until I fell asleep, and only woke that night perhaps three or four times. I was encouraged, and tried it again last night, too, but to no avail. I had a worse night last night than I have had since being here. In fact, at around three in the morning I finally gave up and left my bed for a less frustrating and more rewarding occupation on the computer. I don't mean to dwell on it, but I really want you to understand that I need your prayers badly. It's so hard to keep a good attitude, and every little annoyance is so difficult to just brush off when I'm so tired. I either need sleep, or I need the grace to be able to trust that God's strength will be sufficient where I lack. He is always good.

Thank you so much!
Elisabeth

Sunday, August 20, 2006

I hate maraschino cherries.

I mean to send some pictures soon, so that you can perhaps begin to visualize that which I write about. A picture is, after all, worth a thousand words (which statement I disagree with, by the way).

Yesterday evening I attended the English service at Every Nation Church, which Titus had told me of. It was only a fifteen minute bus ride from where I live, which fact I didn't appreciate until I learned that some of the other attendees travel for two hours, from the other side of Seoul, to get there. It was a little bit of a walk, under the blistering sun, from the bus station to the church. "How are you?" I was asked upon entering the building. "Quite warm," I replied without thinking. I introduced myself, and was introduced to several people, then we took our seats. As the music began, I found myself relaxing until I almost wanted to cry with relief. It was so indescribably refreshing to worship again as I'm used to, in my own language. I hadn't realized how much I'd missed it. We visited for almost two hours after the service, and when I finally left for home it was with many invitations to return. I certainly will.

The Korean church that I obligatorily attend in the early afternoon holds less elation for me, but is a good opportunity to talk, in a relaxed setting, with those with whom I work. We gather round for Scripture reading, communion and singing – often Christmas carols, which makes me smile. Then we eat lunch and chat in small groups together for an hour or so. I now have a Korean-English Bible, so I can follow along with the reading. I try to sing the hymns in Korean, too, though I don't get much out of them that way. Two o'clock usually finds me on my way back home, either walking through the market or hitching a ride with the Dubes, which I do often.

I've been making it a point to eat regularly. Usually when I'm on my own, I just snack on whatever, and don't really bother to cook. But I remember Naomi's charge, "Elisabeth please eat well!" and attempt to appease this memory. Breakfast is light, dinner is heavy, and lunch I usually eat with a hundred or so other employees, on the 8th floor of SCG: Kimchee (which is growing more, rather than less, distasteful with time), rice, soup, and meat (usually cooked). As a general rule, I enjoy lunch here. Occasionally I find it revolting to the point of hilarity. One day, as I made my way down the lunch line, I was pleased to see a fruit salad. I smiled in pleasant anticipation. Most fruit salads are mixed with a delicious fruit dressing and nuts; this was no exception. Peaches, pear, apple, and squid...huh?!

Today, as I walked through the market, I saw a flash of bright red and suddenly found myself craving maraschino cherries. I laughed, and promptly dismissed the notion: I hate maraschino cherries.

Thursday, August 17, 2006

'Stay Alert – Stay Alive'

It has begun to be hot in earnest. Though the thermometer today only reads 33°C (about 91°F), the humidity is stifling. It's been a challenge trying to accustom myself to the metric system, its logic and practicality notwithstanding. I found an online metric converter that performs equations for everything I've need so far, as well as for some things I haven't. I use it often. However, I use the temperature conversion so often, on everything from the weather to cooking, that I've since memorized the equation for conversions between Celsius and Fahrenheit, and now can calculate the difference in my head pretty quickly. (For those who are interested: C°(9/5) + 32 = F° & (F°-32)5/9 = C° )

This afternoon I decided to disregard the heat, and went out for walk after lunch to get some exercise (I get a headache from sitting all day, if I don't take a break). By the time I got back to SCG a half an hour later I was drenched with sweat, and never so glad for the AC!

But there is nothing wrong with sweat. To support this statement I am compelled to revert to what by now must be a topic worn thin. Food is such an integral part of this society that, while I heartily apologize for subjecting you to such past and present analysis as I have, I can hardly avoid the discussion thereof. So I state that the temperature of all food served is proportionate the temperature of the given day. Honestly, the more blistering the weather, the hotter and spicier, by default, the food must be. This is not random coincidence; it is deliberately premeditated, the logic of which may be stated as follows: The more spicy one's food, the more profusely he will sweat. And the more profusely one sweats, the cooler he will (of course) become. Thus some of Korea's hottest dishes are reserved for such weather as this. I have avoided eating out lately, for obvious reasons.

Only two more 'food' observations, and then I'll move on to less worn out topics. Both are short.
Food Observation #1: Yesterday, after shopping, the Dubes and I lunched at Costco. I was heartily enjoying an enormous, hot, cheesy slice of pizza. Beth nodded her head for me to look at the table across from us. I couldn't tell what she was referring to, unless it was the huge amount of corn piled up on one of the plates. 'Know what that is?' Adam grinned at me. My stomach turned as he explained that what I had mistaken for corn was diced raw union and mustard. 'You'll see that a lot. Wherever there's pizza or hot dogs.' Oh joy!
Food Observation #2: Now that I've been here for some time, I'm no longer treated to the delicious American version of Korean food. Real Korean food is very different, and much more difficult to get used to. One taste that Koreans seem addicted to is green tea. This flavor can be found in anything from soda crackers to breakfast cereal to ice cream. They even have green tea doughnuts, for crying out loud! And what can't, by some ill chance, be found in green tea, can surely be found in red bean: pastries, fruit smoothies. . . you name it. I really have to laugh.

Easier than the food, for me to adjust to, has been the traffic. In fact, I've come to heartily enjoy what various modes of transportation there are. Subways, trains, taxis and busses are the most frequently employed. The latter two I have the most fun with. A few evenings ago the bus for which I been waiting about ten minutes came lumbering massively into view. I squeezed myself in as it rolled to a stop, reaching around and between a mass of hot, jabbering bodies for a hand-hold. The buss lurched crazily back onto the road, and my countenance remained as impassively disinterested as that of those between whom I was wedged. . .but inside I grinned. It's something like a carnival ride to be packed in like sardines, while endeavoring to maintain one's balance as the bus veers crazily around pedestrians.

The pedestrian – traffic merge is one that still startles me, though I have come to find it quite convenient. The road is primarily for wheels (though it precludes not feet), and the sidewalk primarily for feet (though it precludes not wheels). This practice at first appears quite cacophonous (forgive my misuse of this word – I'm merely attempting to be consistent with this 'primarily but not precluding' logic, as I apply a discordant sound-adjective to sight), but after a while one grows accustomed to darting across the street between moving vehicles, or to jumping aside to avoid those motorcycles that race between cars parked on the sidewalk. The horns that are so frequently and blaringly employed seem a sufficient safety measure, because so far I haven't witnessed any amazing catastrophes. 'Stay Alert – Stay Alive' would be an appropriate axiom.

Parking is a real problem in Seoul, home to 10.3 million people, a quarter of South Korea's population. That's 43,700 people per sq. mi. There just isn't enough room for parked vehicles to stay at ground level. The various solutions to this problem still amuse me. One resolution could be most aptly described as a 'car-carrousel'. Adam likened it to those glass-enclosed rotating chicken or hotdog ovens that one would find in a supermarket. I have to agree, as I watch the parked cars rotating vertically in their respectively stifling garages. The other solution is to park below ground. The parking garage at an ordinary supermarket sometimes goes down three or four levels. Still, there often isn't room enough. Once all the marked parking spaces are filled, cars will be parked where one would suppose they should be driving, perpendicularly blocking in all the parallely parked cars. But don't be misled, courtesy is still a must. If one's parking blocks another's exit, the former will leave his car in neutral so that the later can easily push it out of the way.

Not only is Seoul the fifth largest city in the world, it is also the most expensive, second only to Moscow. I can easily believe that. Walking through Costco yesterday I saw cuts of beef going for W710/g (that's over $280/lb). Notwithstanding the excellence of the cuts, I was blown away. Adam and Beth laughed at me, 'Oh, you'll get used to it. You'll have to.' I hope I get used to it soon. I still feel sick whenever I think of how much I spend every time I go shopping.

Other than this unwelcome sensation, shopping is an amusing experience. Just about every stairway in Seoul is a moving one. Those found in shopping centers are no exceptions. Most centers are either several stories high or else under ground. Space-conservation, and all that. These all have several escalators to carry shoppers and their carts from one floor to another. Just another of the many conveniences taken for granted.

Apparently to counterbalance every other expediency, one greatest of all inconveniences daily derides me. I still don't know where I'm to live. I've been here for a month and haven't yet unpacked either of my suitcases. I have no idea when this frustration will be remedied. Until it is, I shall remain very much unsettled. There's been much discussion regarding where my apartment will be, but so far not much action.

Well, I'm going to wrap this up now, despite that rather unenthusiastic last paragraph. I don't like to end on a negative note, but time is inexorable. I think my emails have been mainly composed of little cultural absurdities, and not much of my daily life. Hopefully next time I write I'll feel inclined to include some more personal happenstances.

Until then, may God bless and keep you as He has me,
Elisabeth

Thursday, August 03, 2006

After all, one must either laugh or cry!

What a beautiful day it is! I really hadn't wanted to come to this camp – as in really hadn't wanted to come. The powers that be, however, dictated otherwise, and I was rather grudgingly compelled. Now, though, I dread the moment when the kids will leave this afternoon. I had so much fun with them, and really got close to a small few. I'm amazed at God's determination to bless me in spite of myself.

How strange! An ambulance just pulled up, and two RNs (or what ever they're called over here) rushed into the training center and up the stairs with a stretcher. No one seems at all concerned, and people keep milling about, laughing and chatting as though nothing is at all out of the ordinary. So I keep writing. I wonder if alarm is as shameful to express as is emotion?

Olivia wrote a note that she slipped into my hand this morning. Fortunately, most Koreans are much more skilled with their non-verbal than verbal English skills:
"First of all. thanks to you. I'm very pleased. I think that I seem to make a good friend and good teacher. I hope to speak with you a first day in here. So I was pleased speaking with you. You was help and worried for me. I can know your mind is true. You are good teacher. I think that you can become good teacher to everybody. So I hope that you give a helping hand for children that need encouragement of other people. You can do very well. Lastly. Thanks teacher and I hope to keep communication take advantage of internet. good luck your life."
At lunch I sat across from her. "I pray to Jesus first time this morning," she said, "I start to believe little bit."

The day grows warm, until even I am compelled to admit to being uncomfortably hot. But, and even though the AC is on, all the doors and windows are open. 'Inside air' is exceedingly unhealthy, I've learned. No matter how extreme the outside weather, one must not be permitted to breathe only inside air for any prolonged period of time, lest unspeakable ills befall that foolish offender. Needless to say, the AC is rendered quite superfluous in such case, and I can only suppose is left on strictly for the psychological value thereof.

My shoulders and neck have been causing me a lot of grief lately. They haven't hurt this badly, nor this constantly, in a great while. The muscles in my chest are beginning to stiffen and be sore; I suppose because they are over compensating. This concerns me a bit, besides being extremely uncomfortable. It always hurts worse when I'm sedentary, so I'm somewhat apprehensive about beginning my nearly fulltime office job. I'm more glad than ever, now, that I opted to forfeit a ride to work in favor of walking. Ten minutes each way isn't much, but it's certainly better than nothing. Perhaps the state of my back is somewhat due to the state of my mattress. If there is one spring hidden within its stubborn depths, I have yet to discover it. I've never slept on such a rock hard bed. When I sit on it, it resists with a cracking that sounds more like plywood than plywood does. My pillow was of the same caliber. That is, uncomfortable but not, thankfully, like plywood. I often woke with a headache that worsened as the day progressed, until the Dubes discovered their cause and found me a new pillow - bless them! I shall have to break down and by myself a mattress pad, too, though that will cost, I understand, upwards of W100,000. Yikes!

We ate dinner out this evening. I always have fun with that, because there are such a plethora of interesting experiences involved. One removes ones shoes at the entrance, as is done upon entering any abode, and sits on a small square mat, usually not very padded, at a very low table, just far enough off the ground for one to scoot his legs under, if he should so desire. Then begins the fun. Two or three waitress begin to carry out very small dish after very small dish of food. The first time I witnessed this phenomena I was amazed. Through the course of the entire meal, the dishes never stop coming. Pretty soon, the table is completely filled, and dishes begin pyramiding, then spilling over onto the floor. No several dish contains the same food, so each is quite communal, and much reaching, sharing and passing is conducted. This manner of consumption pleases me, because of course, it makes it so fantastically simple to avoid some of those not so appealing dishes – i.e. raw crab saturated with soy sauce, or live octopi (though I haven't yet been so privileged as to personally witness this later delicacy). Yesterday I tried a pepper that everyone swore was not hot. I, trusting creature that I am, took a large, Korean style bite. The sensation that flooded over me is indescribable. My tongue hurt. My gums hurt. My teeth hurt. My entire head exploded with a rushing, fiery heat. I brought my hands to my face, and in doing so, held aloft what was left of the pepper. Exclamations of surprise and remorse fell on my ringing ears, "Oh! You got the wrong kind. Even we can't eat those plain! Much too spicy." A gross understatement. The various reactions were amusing. Some laughter, and picture snapping (I don't want to know how those turned out), some remorse and water offering. Eventually my mouth cooled off enough for me to be able to eat again. Apparently the damage hadn't been irreparable. The rest of my meal consisted of very the safe dishes of rice and bulgogie.

Bulgogie is the very best part of any meal. In the center of each table, within everyone's easy reach, is placed live coals over which is cooked, as we watch and partake, bite-sized cuts of brilliantly flavored beef. This is either eaten alone, straight off the grill, else wrapped in lettuce with rice, garlic, bean dip, or any other food that appeals to the individual. Both are equally to die for. After dinner ice cold rice noodle soup is often served, and pieces of watermelon with those transparent, green toothpicks which are later to be employed in a rather inconvenient manner.

To pick ones teeth in public is embarrassing, but apparently my teeth are not the only ones that trap bits of food. Toothpicks must, of necessity, be employed, however timid one may be. To shield oneself from the view of others is second best, so one hand covers the mouth while the other clumsily maneuvers the toothpick around this self-constructed obstacle. I, unfortunately, had left my purse behind tonight (and hence, thoughtlessly, my floss), so I was compelled to attempt this toothpick-behind-the-hand routine, but found that it requires a greater dexterity than I have at my disposal to construe. I later learned, though, that it wasn't merely my own coordination at fault. Toothpicks here are not made of wood. Somehow, perhaps with food scraps, pigs also have access to toothpicks, but apparently consume, rather than employ, these utensils. Such usage tends to puncture the stomach, so the Koreans devised a solution: soluble toothpicks. Toothpicks, in fact, composed of cornstarch and sweet potato. Unfortunately, though necessarily for the sake of the swine, it doesn't require much coaxing to persuade them to dissolve. One has several seconds, at best, to do what one can with the worst of the food, before the tip disintegrates into a nub, and is thereby rendered useless. I finally surrendered in mock despair, and began to eat my toothpick, experiencing a momentary sense of mutual camaraderie with those lower caste of the animal kingdom. After all, one must either laugh or cry!

I'm quite exhausted, but content. God has taught me many things this last week. I have been lonely, and desiring companionship. Through this God has caused me to see my soul's need for Himself. If oneness with Him will be the result of my temporary loneliness, then I am satisfied.

Thus concludes another lengthy, randomly irrelevant missive. Thanks for putting up with my ramblings. To put my thoughts on paper is to take them out of my head where they would otherwise be spinning in endless, chaotic circles. It is therapeutic. It is restive.

My love to all of you...

Wednesday, August 02, 2006

Less Laughter. More Applause.

More name-tag reading practice this week. My pronunciation is improving a great deal. My efforts are beginning to be met with less laughter and more applause. Occasionally I even do well enough that the kids don't attempt to correct me. They've finally caught on to the fact that I really do want to learn their language (I wonder what gave them their first clue?), and today they have given me more Korean words than I can ever hope to master in one afternoon. But I am more pleased than I can say at their responding eagerness for communication, and at least these words are being rendered familiar for me.

My own eagerness to learn had begun to be tempered and, if not to abate, at least to be less urgent. However, an incident this morning again provoked in me the desire to be able to communicate in Korean without delay. I was sitting at a table on the roof patio, quite early, reading my Bible. A girl slipped up behind me unnoticed and poked me in the back, startling me. We both had a good laugh, and she sat down across from me. I had a wallet-sized picture of my family that I keep in my Bible, and I pulled it out to show to her. Then I asked about her family. Olivia's English was very poor. It took some time, with me interrupting often, to ask and re-ask very simply phrased questions, to be sure I was understanding her correctly. She explained about her rather difficult family life, which I won't take the time to go into detail about here. A few times her voice broke, and my heart ached for this 16 year old. But it is weakness for a Korean to show emotion, so she swallowed her tears and went on.
One part of the conversation I will relate: though her family isn't religious, she had, in middle school, had a teacher who was a Christian. However her Dad and older sister would get angry at her for asking questions about Christianity, and wouldn't allow her to attend church. Her pretty round face was screwed up in her effort to frame her words correctly.
"I don't understand about Jesus," is my translation, "I want to believe and to be saved, but I don't understand very much. I want Jesus to be my friend, like He is yours. Can you tell me how?"
I began to talk, but her face clouded and she shook her head. She couldn't understand.
"Pray." I said, and she nodded. "Jesus will help you to believe." Again she nodded. "I will pray for you, too."
She smiled and bowed, "Thank you."
But more than that I could not communicate, and I wanted to tear at my hair in frustration. Finally I told her, slowly and with much repetition, "I will ask someone who understands Korean to talk to you. They can help."
She gave me a hug before leaving, and I was later able to ask Joanna, as soon as I could pull her aside, to talk with Olivia at some point, which I trust she will do. I was left, however, with a strange, hollow pain in my heart, and a burning desire to be able to communicate with these people in their own language.

Hopefully this desire can soon begin to be realized. I have discovered the location of a church that I've heard gives free weekend Korean lessons. After consulting my subway map, I figure that the church is only about a half hour ride away. One of the first things I intend to do upon arriving back in Seoul is see if I can't locate the church in practice as well as in theory. This will be good subway practice, as a bonus. I rode it for the first time, and by myself, three days ago, and made it to my destination without too much confused ado. Another time or two should lend me some confidence, and then I shall be felicitously free to use my wings.

I was restless last night, and it drew me outside. I looked up and saw stars in the sky for the first time since being here. It was lovely, and reminded me of God's nearness. And my heart was quieted.

Much love,
Elisabeth

Tuesday, August 01, 2006

No Wonder the Koreans Stare!

I write this lying in the crab grass outside the training center. I'll probably regret it later, but there's no grass to be found in Seoul, and I don't know when I'll get another opportunity. Besides, its so warm out, and the air so fresh, how can I resist?

The middle school girls walk by squealing and pointing, "Eensectuh!" I shrug and smile, "Oh well." Though this assumed nonchalance seems to reassure the girls, I myself am a wee bit jumpy. The 'eensectuh's here are really grotesque. Most of what I've seeing in the grass are only one or two inch long beetle looking things, though, and not some great horned, fanged, wingless creature, so my laziness overcomes my hesitation, and I continue to lie in the grass.

Right now, the teens have two hours of 'Quiet & Reflection', a time equivalent to 'Silence & Solitude' back at the Mansion. One girl, perhaps 14 years old, sits about 5 feet away, sketching me (Koreans are fantastically artistic). What 'quiet reflections' I provoke I cannot guess. But it pleases me to be as universally accepted and loved among these middle and high schoolers as I was among the kindergarten and grade schoolers. Though it took the older ones some little time to get over their shyness.

Perhaps this reserve could be credited to my appearance. In Korea I stand out like a sore thumb. Not only do I tower over everyone, but of course, my hair/eye/skin color is conspicuous as well. My hair is quite long, compared to every other girl's stylishly short cut. I've become as accustomed to people reaching out to finger my hair, as I have to the wide eyed stares that follow me down the street. Both are equally amusing to me. As was one girl's shy remark, 'Your face is pretty, but your nose tips up. It is very big.' No vocal observation of another's blemishes is taboo, be it acne, or obesity, or (heaven forbid!) big, tipped up noses. I confess, I have been embarrassed a time or two by this startling bluntness. However, I found this girl's comment merely amusing. And, looking about me at all the Asian button-noses, I am compelled to admit the truth of the matter: my nose is extraordinarily long. No wonder the Koreans stare!